Like its subject, HBO Max’s 'Julia' is plentiful in charm, but it might be time for something new
impression, plus Child’s own contributions to the worlds of TV, writing, and eating. There’s an
on which contestants will attempt to recreate her recipes. If you want to know what happened in Child’s life, the information is there.attempts to do is grasp the humanity behind the woman that so many of us now feel ownership over. Sometimes it succeeds, letting viewers soak in how remarkable her achievements were, but also the toll they must have taken on her emotionally and mentally. But for all the show’s best effort, I still wonder if it might be time to leave Julia Child alone.
The series positions itself as an exploration of the emergence of public television, and the changing nature of fame and feminism in the 1960s through the lens of Child’sIndeed, it’s at its best when it concerns itself with the muck of creating a cooking show.
Furthermore, centering Julia and Paul makes the prolonged focus on the rest of the characters seem sometimes pointless. No matter how well acted, there’s only so much one can care about Judith Jones juggling clients Child and John Updike, or Naman, a Black woman fighting against racist and sexist assumptions so she can get credit for her work, without wondering when we’re getting back to Child’s well-trodden narrative. In trying to be both about the creation ofBut that might not matter.
In one episode, James Beard elaborates on this to Child, explaining one reason why her cooking show is a hit and his has fizzled out. “America can’t love a fat old fairy like me,” he sighs. Fifty years later, he continues to be mostly right. With some notable exceptions, the people who dominate food fame remain white, straight-presenting, and all manner of other identities that let them read as “non-threatening” to white audiences.
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