Review: Hecks delivers packed seats and reliably good food in Beachwood with eastside return
The Beachwood parking lot adjacent to Hecks was completely full, compelling every diner in our party to maneuver to the distant rear lot in search of refuge. I assumed that the prime spots were gobbled up by the usual mix of diners, shoppers and gym-goers that frequent the shopping center. That is, until I crossed the threshold and saw that every chair, booth and barstool in the 190-seat restaurant was occupied on a Wednesday night.
Is fine dining dead? No, but judging by the crowds that have been filling the seats of Hecks since it opened in February, diners are hungry for a casual, familiar and reasonably priced restaurant that serves approachable if predictable fare. Whether or not that affection will last remains to be seen; east-side diners are notoriously fickle, keen to pursue new restaurants with the fervor of Goose fans on summer tour.
Hecks owns the “best burger” category, locking up the honor annually regardless the publication. The half-pound patties, made from grass-fed Ohio beef, feel almost like a throwback in this age of doily-thin smash burgers. The Ohio City is a hearty pub-style burger topped with sauteed mushrooms and melted mozzarella, tucked into a baby-soft brioche bun and sided by a mountain of fresh-cut fries. There are a dozen different models, including a build-your-own and the vegan “Hipster.
To start or to share, there is an eclectic collection of dishes that range from Spanish shrimp to Polish pierogi. Calamari are lightly breaded, lightly fried, and drizzled with a lime-green basil aioli. Other than an under-seasoned filling, the chicken pot stickers arrive neatly wrapped and pan-fried until golden brown. In the Gambas , sauteed shrimp are bathed in a smoky, spicy sauce with grilled bread served on the side for dipping.
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