Heliot Emil Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
As difficult as it might be to believe, there is a realm in which the freeform craftiness of Collina Strada coexists with the sparse utilitarianism of Heliot Emil. It’s called AI. Both Hillary Taymour and Julius Juul took the decision to feed their past work into a computer and then started editing and puzzling out the machine’s translations of their distinct DNAs into garments that people can wear. In both cases it required human labor.
It makes sense that the Juul brothers , would be among the first in line to experiment with this new technology. Fashion tends to be shy about such things, often employing a silver-and-white retro-futurism as shorthand for things tech and seems happy to leave it at that. The opposite is the case at Heliot Emil, where the focus is solidly on what’s next. “For us, it’s always been about trying new innovations.
The brand’s aesthetic is hard, sleek, streamlined, features a lot of hardware, and is not especially emotional. Funnily enough spring’s man-meets-machine lineup had unexpected poetry that was linked to the increase of draping, which took both classical and deconstructed forms. “I think [this AI experiment] has taught me quite a lot about looking inwards,” noted Juul. It also stretched the team creatively on a material level.
One of the workarounds Juul and team found was to make use of suspension techniques, many of which don’t visibly involve hardware. There was less volume and more layers and draping, much of which was overcomplicated but did create a welcome sense of flou, which moved the general vibe from Rick and more in the direction of Ann 2.0. Simply put, this collection was surprisingly pretty. It was also overlong. An edit would have made the message clearer.
The dichotomy between human and machine was echoed in the play of organic against engineered, the material and the abstract. AI, noted Juul struggles with the latter, but designers have to deal with intangibles as well. “Fashion is a reflection of how we all feel and act in one way or another,” he noted. “There are things that we’re consciously doing, and then there are subconscious influences” in collections as well.
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