Here at 11,500 feet, along the world’s longest mountain range, is the quieter, more unpredictable side of the famed trail that most travelers will never see.
n a rainy day, I find out about the kind of middle-of-nowhere adventure that I live for. Three parts of Ecuador’s Inca Trail happening on three separate weekends. One involves camping in the wild, another features a waterfall. My heart skips a beat.
This is Oña—a scenic place in the south of Ecuador. The Incas once walked along this very spot and, today, we’re retracing their steps. The grand finale is a waterfall that we’ll hit by lunch. That’s matter-of-fact compared to the legends I hear about Carachula. As the story goes, there’s both a giant condor shaped out of stone that keeps watch on the whole valley and a teetering boulder which can be shifted only by the power of a single person. Today we’re going to the condor. It’s a route that weaves across wildflower fields, along mountain streams, through the bouncy floor of a pine forest, and up a steep incline towards the condor.
The five of us relax here for a little while, sharing cookies, snapping photos, and playing with a drone. The Inca Trail urges you to reconnect with a past civilization but here, I’m focused on those who are from Ecuador and live here today. That they have the generosity to bring me along, answer my questions, and share these stories isn’t lost on me. And I don’t take it for granted.
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