These chefs are determined to make the foods of their motherlands as ubiquitous in France as sushi and ceviche are today.
also heaped praise on his refined cuisine, lauding it as a “rare offering” in the French capital.a savory fermented-cassava and palm-oil cake popular in Cameroon, was lightly smoked in banana leaf before being fried. The end result was evocative of Parmigiano-Reggiano and smoked charcuterie meats, Bond says. Thesauce was made from a dark spice blend from Cameroon that is charred before being ground and turns everything it touches black.
The menu is local when possible and seasonal—and nothing goes to waste. Carrot fronds are dehydrated and pulverized into a powder to aromatize a dish; fish bones are fried, smoked and turned into bouillons or reduced to powder and used as fish salt. And there are days when fish, despite the restaurant’s being close to the Mediterranean coast, will not be on the menu—no apologies. “It’s up to us to educate our customers,” she says. “The sea is not a supermarket. It also has its seasons.
Educating the public is a common refrain. Following meals at Mi Kwabo, Bond presented diners with a platter featuring the raw forms of the ingredients they had just eaten. The BMK Paris-Bamako website offers lessons on African foods. “A lot of people know very little about the African continent,” Viou says.
Indeed, there are 54 countries in Africa, each with its own traditions. It’s also worth noting that African American soul foods have established their own separate category in Paris. Restaurants such as
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