In 2020, hels wrote a poignant meditation on fruit, police brutality, and the killing of George Floyd.
There’s a few bad apples that are giving law enforcement a terrible name.—An apple tree in bloom is a thing of majesty: armlike branches, held aloft in an eternal pose of praise , wreathed in a stippled cloud of blossoms. Bees rest on the flowers’ quivering stamens to sip their golden nectar, then move in drunken joy to another tree, their legs and backs powdered with pollen. When the pollen from one tree’s flower meets the pistil of the flower of another, a small miracle of creation occurs.
take months to grow: the fruit from a flower fertilized in April may not reach maturity until October or November. Only then will it begin to ripen., but, in a manner more familiar to us in, their offspring don’t grow true from seed: the child of a round, speckled Winesap and a muscular Gravenstein might resemble one or both of its parents, or it might go off on a path entirely of its own.
The closer an apple is to rot, the more rot it spreads—one spoiling apple, in a crisper drawer or a fruit bowl, or a storage barrel or a cross-country shipping container, or even still hanging on the bough, speeds the rot of every apple it touches, and even of ones it doesn’t touch. The whole bunch quickly begins to exemplify what the artist Claes Oldenburg called “the brown sad art of rotting apples”: a swamp of ferment, infecting the air with the hideous sweetness of decay.
“We are in the war zone against this disease,” George Sundin, a fruit-tree pathologist at Michigan State University,in 2019, about fire blight, the most recent major threat to apples. The process of eradicating it “is not necessarily trial and error,” he added. “It is things we know are effective, but they need to be more effective. If the disease takes off, it can spread so quickly.” The only way to avoid rot is to be proactive: check every apple, every tree.
is a staff writer at The New Yorker. In 2016, she won the James Beard award for personal-essay writing.
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