Decade in dining: How Los Angeles became America's best and most exciting food city
When I landed back in L.A. in 2016 [after living in Mexico and writing the book “Down and Delirious in Mexico City: The Aztec Metropolis in the Twenty-First Century”], I saw how the food truck scene had transformed the way the city eats. But what I also saw was a real transmigration of contemporary Mexican traditions, methods and ingredients. It was so different from the 20th century “conquistador” style of Mexican food.
What also happened was a sort of unofficial assumption that Mexican/Latin street-food-style eating is the everyman eating of L.A. In the very core of L.A., I would say it’s Mexican-Latin-Central-American cuisines and Korean cuisine that’s become what we eat and who we are, regardless of color or nationality.When I was writing the Rogue 99 list [L.A. Taco’s analogue to L.A. Weekly’s Essential 99 Restaurants; Nguyen cowrote the list with Katherine Spiers], I wanted a term that could describe L.A.
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