Tasting Notes: How one restaurateur is feeding Beirut in crisis
Mouzawak is one of Beirut’s most prominent restaurateurs; his businesses employ women who cook daily-changing menus comprising the dishes of their village or region. I met him during a trip to Beirut last summer at an outpost of Tawlet in the dense, commercial Hamra neighborhood. Lebanon’s economic crisis, compounded by the pandemic, put the location out of business in May.
Mouzawak’s partner sustained a head injury and their home was damaged. “It took me two days to even start thinking again,” he said, “and then World Central Kitchen contacted me on WhatsApp.”, director of field operations for WCK, arrived in Lebanon on Wednesday; he and Mouzawak met on Thursday and began feeding people the next day. Mouzawak says the plan is to partner with WCK for the next few weeks, and then he intends to set up an ongoing community kitchen to feed people in need.
In the meantime Tawlet is beginning to receive food donations, including lamb and vegetables from the nearby Beqaa Valley. Food insecurity in Lebanon looks dire. The explosion wiped out reserves of grains stored near the port; Lebanon imports 85% of its food, according to a statement from the United Nations’ World Food Programme.He recalled a recent conversation with a friend who was packing to leave and said to Mouzawak, “This is a dead region.” The words galvanized Mouzawak.
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