From forgoing their own salary to giving raises, small business owners are finding ways to hire and retain their staff
. These companies could certainly afford to pay their line-level employees higher wages to entice them back to work. But the restaurant industry is hardly monolithic, and these outrageous examples belie the complexity of an industry that is not only made up of mostly small businesses but also relies on a broader supply chain that is facing its own pandemic-related calamities. Yes, executive compensation in this country is out of control, and workers are paid too little.
Ed Szymanski and Patricia Howard, who own the new Manhattan restaurant Dame together and, like Sze, are members of the 2021 Eater New Guard, have “had it relatively good,’’ Szymanski says. “We’re a lucky outlier with a tiny total staff of nine, including ourselves, and they’re all friends.
Nelson German, owner of Sobre Mesa and Alamar in Oakland, said that his reputation has allowed him to keep most of his staff, although he’s still missing some: “It revolves around culture — they’re down for you if you’re down for them.” He said he’s always offered competitive wages and gave raises to those who’ve stayed through the pandemic’s shutdowns and reopenings.
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