Thanksgiving is complicated for some Indigenous chefs. In pushing back against the myth of the friendly Indians welcoming the Pilgrims, they're instead celebrating ingredients indigenous to North America and advocating for a return to Native food systems.
Thanksgiving is a complicated time for Taelor Barton. The Tulsa, Oklahoma-based Cherokee chef is gathering with family to share a meal on the holiday, but the history of how the US has treated Native Americans hangs heavy in the air. While the conventional narrative around Thanksgiving has been one of friendship and alliance between the Wampanoag and the Plymouth colonists, Barton sees the holiday as a reminder of all that Indigenous people endured with the arrival of Europeans.
Communities reclaim control of food systems Sean Sherman experienced a pretty typical Thanksgiving spread growing up on the Pine Ridge Reservation in South Dakota: Turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes. The Oglala Lakota chef has warm memories of that time, but as he got older, his outlook on the holiday shifted. What he had learned in school was a false narrative that glorified colonialism, he said, and not something that ought to be celebrated.
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