For cinematographer Hoyte van Hoytema, the challenge with Christopher Nolan’s “Oppenheimer” was about capturing what was going on inside the head of J. Robert Oppenheimer, the fat…
, whether it was a two-piece suit or three-piece suit, it was his silhouette. Part of that was finding his hat, which is a character unto itself.
This film required a different approach for the famed costume designer, whose credits include “Basic Instinct,” “Wall Street” and “Bridgerton.” “In this film and in working with Chris, what became clear to me after our first meeting was that the Oppenheimer silhouette never changed,” she says. “It had to have a particular thickness to it and a particular kind of felt. You couldn’t move the brim,” she explains. “None of the hatmakers could get the brim right when we were trying to create it. That was the test, and only Baron got it 100% right.” Mirojnick notes that Oppenheimer only wears one hat throughout the entire film, which she describes as a hybrid of a porkpie crown with a somewhat Western brim.
Through her research, Mirojnick noticed the silhouette pretty much remained the same “once he became empowered at Berkeley,” and that was a gift to her and Nolan. “It never changed in all of those decades,” she adds.
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