Even with a newfound appreciation and celebration of a wide range of tones, specifically darker ones, creating foundations for Black skin is more complex than what lies on the surface
Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photo: Getty Images Ask any Black woman about her experience shopping for foundation, and there is a common narrative. The shades were too ashy, too warm, too cool, or even worse, nonexistent. Until recently, the foundation landscape was a labyrinth to navigate, and finding a true match felt nearly impossible. Then came the explosive launch of Fenty Beauty by Rihanna in 2017.
While color theory may sound elementary, there is still a dearth of knowledge about Black skin, specifically understanding the myriad of shades and nuances of undertones, which poses a challenge to brands in the formulation process. Tamerri Ater, senior product development director at Versed Skincare, explains, “A big part of developing the shades for people of color is knowing the shade range of people’s skin tones.
Once the base formula is solidified, the next and arguably most important step is the color-matching phase. This process is extensive and usually twofold: First, the foundation is tested through an internal panel of formulating partners and in-house staff , and secondly with a pool of outside candidates. “At Glossier, we ensure that the lab is testing it on a couple of different skin tones every time they create a submission.
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