Light and tender gnocchi require a light and tender touch.
many years ago, back when Canora worked there. It's the recipe Colicchio still uses today , and some of its tricks, including using a bench scraper or similar tool to cut the flour into the cooked potato, are common in many recipes now, including mine here.
I wanted to see just how absolute this rule is, so I tried making gnocchi from a few different kinds of potatoes, include plain white ones and Yukon Golds. As it turns out, the rule is not as absolute as some might have you believe. The truth is, you can make really good gnocchi from a range of potatoes, including white- and yellow-fleshed varieties. Yellow-fleshed ones, for example, create more silken gnocchi with a rich, eggy appearance, even when no egg has been added.
As far as baking, many experts say that you should bake the potatoes on a bed of coarse salt. Some explain that this is to allow air to circulate around the potatoes; others say that salt helps draw out more moisture. Using the same before-and-after weight tests, I was able to debunk the moisture theory: Potatoes baked on a bed of salt lost roughly the same amount of water weight as those baked either on a rack or directly on a baking sheet.
The photos in the step-by-step below show the process with yolk, but you don't need to change the method if you skip the yolk. Surprisingly, in my tests, I didn't find that I needed to add much more flour to the dough with yolk: Roughly a quarter cup of flour per pound of potato was the ballpark ratio that worked for me, whether I was using yolk or not.
As for how to measure the flour, this is a case where I think using a measuring cup is just fine. We recently published, which sets out some important basic standards while stressing the superior accuracy of a scale for some dry ingredients, since volume measurements of compressible ones like flour can vary widely.
No matter which method you start off with, there are some important details to keep in mind when you do start using your hands. Namely, you don't want to knead the dough—at least, not in the traditional, bread-making sense of the word. With bread, the motion involves folding and then pressing the dough down while stretching it out with the palm of your hand, with the goal of developing the wheat gluten.
As soon as they come out of the oven, split them in half lengthwise. If you use tongs to steady the potatoes, you won't have to wait for them to cool at all. This helps the steam billow out instead of being absorbed back into the potato flesh as it cools. If you're using egg yolk, now's the time to drizzle it on. Try to get it all over the potato in a thin stream.
The dough may still be slightly warm, almost like it's radiating body heat, and incredibly supple without any elasticity, yet it should also feel like a cohesive dough.
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