Here's Looking at You in Ktown is back, as wonderfully irreverent as ever
It was early spring 2018 and I was still wandering the country as Eater’s national critic. The energy at Lien Ta and Jonathan Whitener’s tiny, eccentric Koreatown restaurant was popping: loud hip-hop, scrunched seating, raucous crowd. Its menu, which at first glance could mostly be slapped with a “global small plates” label, looked like madness.
I had other similarly stirring meals over the next months at HLAY. It was on my final list of Eater’s for how deftly it evoked Los Angeles, and for the exuberance Ta and her team brought to the dining experience., I lay out the context of its closing in July 2020 — billed as “temporary” then but such a loss it was hard to hold out hope — and then its improbable, triumphant and still fragile reopening in January. Ta and Whitener have returned with a small crew and a condensed menu, but its spirit is intact. I’m so, so glad HLAY is back.
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