Andy Richardson visited a Japanese restaurant that offered delicious food, great service, value for money and a relaxed ambiance.Great food.
What do those words conjure for diners? Is it a quiet night in with a steak and chips for two? Is it a Michelin-starred dinner that lives long in the memory? Is it street food in some overseas destination, where a guy cooks over a wood-fire pan? Or is it something else that’s undeniably exotic, expensive, or extravagant?The answer, usually, is that it doesn’t have to be any of the above. Good food is frequently about conviviality. It’s about being comfortable.
It’s located in Golden Cross Passage, in Shrewsbury town centre, and fits in with the town’s reputation as a centre for good, affordable, independent restaurants.Shrewsbury really seemed to ignite when the town launched its own food festival and since then there’s been no shortage of operators who’ve been keen to showcase cuisine from around the world.
Umai is quirky and quaint. The menu is wide-ranging and offers plenty of opportunities to sample authentic Japanese dishes. Service is good, with staff being polite and attentive, while never being intrusive or overbearing. They get the balance just right, making sure people are comfortable, at ease, and made to feel welcome.I started with a bowl of miso soup. The broth was thick, hearty, slightly sweet, and rich with umami flavour.
A wasabi tiger was far better. Featuring tempura prawn, salmon, avocado, tobiko, cucumber, and Japanese wasabi mayonnaise, it provided a range of textures and flavours and showcased so many of the things that are desirable about Japanese food. The stand-out dish of an enjoyable dinner, it showed good skills on the part of the chef and a winning combination of ingredients.
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