In one visit to Zeyrek Çinili Hamam, life's stresses melted away
In a high-ceilinged marble room, where the stone is warm to touch and the sunlight streams in through delicately carved stars at the top of a dome, I am being slathered with a cloud of bubbles. If I squint, the celestial white blur before me would look a lot like how heaven is depicted in, and it feels like it too. As warm water is gently poured over me to rinse the bubble blanket away, I’m left feeling the most pure, clean, and relaxed I think I have ever felt.
The 500-year-old bath house was designed by one of Turkey’s most famous Ottoman architects, Mimar Sinan, and was commissioned by Hayreddin Barbarossa, the grand admiral of the Ottoman Empire. It was covered in delicately decorated blue and white Iznik tiles (in the region, an antiques dealer from Paris bought some of the fragments, which have since ended up in displays in the Louvre, V&A and British Museum.
As true as this is, to fully understand its heritage, it would be remiss to visit Çinili without experiencing one of its hamam treatments. There are nine on offer – from indulgent 100-minute packages to half-hour foam massages – but I choose what is bound to become the most popular: The Original, a 60-minute traditional bathing ritual., which simply involves lying on the stone beneath the soaring dome and letting the stress of life melt away.
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