In exile in Bangladesh, a bittersweet revival of Rohingya culture

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In exile in Bangladesh, a bittersweet revival of Rohingya culture
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In exile in Bangladesh, a bittersweet revival of Rohingya culture by poppymcp Simondlewis

KUTUPALONG REFUGEE CAMP, Bangladesh - Chain-smoking singer Gudar Mia, who recently turned 80 in a refugee camp in Bangladesh, lit another cigarette, closed his eyes, and crooned the opening words of a Rohingya folk song.

Now their venue is a bamboo shelter in a Bangladeshi camp on the edge of a trash-filled swamp, their audience a curious crowd of fellow refugees. But for the first time in decades they are free to play music. Now home to close to a million people, including those who fled previous waves of violence, the camps comprise the world’s largest refugee settlement.

Known as hawla, the old songs are slow and normally played at weddings, love stories that revolve around the towns of northern Rakhine, traditions like flying kites, and the rhythms of rice farming. “Mostly we sang in the farmland while we harvested our crops, and sometimes in the moonlit nights we sang and danced,” he said. “At that time there were no restrictions.”

At the traditional affairs event, after the music, the crowd gathered for traditional food, including a sweet dish known as modhu baator or “honey rice” usually eaten during the hottest time of the year to cool down and luri feera, rice-flour flatbreads made during festivals to be eaten with beef or goat curry.

“In Myanmar, Rohingya is not considered as an ethnic according to our history books,” he said, adding that another Muslim ethnicity, Kaman, was the only one recognized.

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