At Clothsurgeon's new flagship, the highest level of old-school craftsmanship is applied to decidedly modern duds.
Matharu’s arrival at the Row isn’t about upturning the cutting tables so much as reimagining what’s possible at the home of British bespoke. “We give a person the ability to come in and create…there’s no limitation,” Matharu tellsClothsurgeon’s Savile Row storefront. “We do more casual wear but we’re able to do tailored styles. We discuss fabric, design, measurement and fitting, whether it’s oversized or form fitted. I want people to come in and chat, I don’t want it to be intimidating.
Matharu was born in the Northern English town of Leeds and was a gifted soccer player in his youth, going pro by 17. His soccer years imbued him with a love of cleats verging on obsession, and when he left professional sports a few years later, he chose to study art and design. Working both in retail and on design teams, Matharu transformed that love of sneakers into a dual appreciation of both classic menswear and the hype of marquee fashion brands.
“The amount of collabs in the sneaker world means it’s about what’s next, about reselling products: You get excited about a release and then a week later there’s another,” Matharu says. The artificial scarcity of streetwear drops might simulate the one-of-a-kind nature of bespoke, but it’s a poor approximation. “If you can go into a store and buy a jacket from a production line for 10k, it’s not true luxury. It can be an expensive product that’s still fast fashion.
It’s making, not branding, that sets Clothsurgeon apart. Like traditional bespoke, all of Clothsurgeon’s custom pieces are designed from the ground up and entirely produced at its atelier in east London. Clients have up to 25 measurements taken, from which Matharu creates a pattern—bespoke clients can even opt to have a basted fitting. For this service, a jacket starts at around $1,500 and takes four-to-six weeks to produce.
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