A number of Instagram personalities in the ethical fashion space are pivoting away from pushing product even as sustainability becomes buzzier than ever.
On Instagram, Hughes has 10,400 followers, a number that places her squarely in the realm of "micro-influencer" — one step above "nano-influencer," which influencer intelligence platform Klear defines as having between 500 and 5,000 followers, but roughly 20,000 followers short of "power influencer."
The tension between conscience and commerce is nothing new. Neither is the idea that conscious consumption, as a concept, is fundamentally flawed. Less clear is whether you're still an influencer if you're not, per the Cambridge English Dictionary, "describing products and services on social media [and] encouraging people to buy them."
Nick Cook, co-founder of influencer marketing firm The Goat Agency, says brands use influencers as a form of third-party endorsement. People are more likely to trust customer testimonials over marketing copy, and if that customer is someone they know — even through the parasocial lens of social media — they're all the more believable.
The system is self-policing insomuch as modern-day consumers are quick to sniff out inauthenticity. The model-actress Cara Delevingne, for instance, recently caught flak for billing herself as an "Earth protector" on the one hand and collaborating with fast-fashion brand Boohoo on the other. "The more I learned about sustainability and how the biggest thing we can really do is just to consume less, I got the same feeling I had had years before where it was like, 'I don't feel good about this,'" she says. "As good as these individual companies may be, I just don't feel comfortable supporting this much consumption."
"That's a kind of influence," she says. "I'm just no longer making money for corporations." To pay the bills, she works at an herbal apothecary and a bookstore in Pennsylvania. In a similar vein, the use of the hashtag #sustainablefashion has quintupled on Instagram since 2016, according to French analytics firm Heuritech, which reviewed 25 million posts and 400 hashtags employed by U.S. and European users over the past three years. Influencers drove the conversation and therefore the trend, according to Célia Poncelin, head of marketing and communications at Heuritech.
There are other considerations: Hughes knows she has been able to turn away sponsors because she has a day job, working in marketing at a kombucha company. She acknowledges it's her privilege as a slim, white, blonde woman that not only allows her to earn a living but also reject paid opportunities. In an effort to redress the imbalance endemic to the industry, she's been using "what little power and influence" she has to steer businesses to influencers of color.
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