IsseyMikaye’s spring 1998 collection was described by the designer as a “prototype” that enabled A-POC (A Piece of Cloth), a concept of customizable modular dressing.
[Editor’s note: This collection was originally presented on October 15, 1997, in Paris at the École des Beaux-Arts, and the photos have been digitized as part of Vogue Runway’s ongoing efforts to document historical fashion shows.]
Issey Miyake’s spring 1998 collection opens with a “Look, ma, no hands!” moment. Barefoot models appear wrapped in stretch dresses with no armholes. Words likemight come to mind, but the soft tones of the clothes and the wispy hairstyles of the models suggested some sort of emergence or cocoons. Miyake, who was often inspired by dance, described the pieces as tube veils.
It’s fitting that a piece from this collection was included in the “Manus x Machina” exhibition at the Costume Institute, as the clothes were as concerned with anatomy as technology. Some pieces were created from computer-generated stocking knits. Others, according towere “made of bias-cut linen sewn as a tube and folded at the hem, their inner layers shrink-treated to create two different textures.
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