Josef Centeno's Orsa & Winston is The Times' Restaurant of the Year

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Josef Centeno's Orsa & Winston is The Times' Restaurant of the Year
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Los Angeles Times 2020 restaurant of the year award

At full strength, Post & Beam is an essential Southern California experience, a special night out where people dress up yet feel at ease and, as they walk out the door: happy.

Orsa & Winston serves a multicourse menu that successfully bridges Japanese and Italian flavors; rice porridge pooled in Parmesan cream with seafood became a dish that synthesized his aims.

Donabe with dashi broth, wagyu beef, market vegetables, mushroom, tofu, nori and egg, served at Orsa & Winston. Neither did the restaurant restrict itself to tasting menus: Last year brought a ramped-up a la carte list of “snacks” that could easily stretch into a meal. Savoring homemade pastas at lunch was a noontime escape.Then the pandemic detonated, and Centeno suspended dine-in service at his restaurants six days ahead of the mandatory mid-March shutdown. For a few weeks he closed altogether, spending his days cooking for hospital workers and dying fabrics for his clothing line, Prospect Pine.

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