In pursuit of a soup for Thanksgiving, we discovered this creamy, nut-based soup of Cherokee origin, and learned some history of the holiday along the way.
As a first-generation Chinese-American, I didn't grow up with a sufficiently standard Thanksgiving tradition to think much about what I ate. At our table, green beans gave way to garlicky pea vines; mashed potatoes were swapped for preserved egg congee; stuffing was replaced by oval rice cakes. For a solid decade or more, I thought our family’s Butterball boneless turkey roast was how all Americans cooked turkey.
These were the questions I posed, unsure, to Chef Barton as well as Andean Chef Andrea Murdoch, the founder of Four Directions Cuisine, which is a culinary business rooted in contemporary indigenous food. While my interviews were conducted separately, a common thread emerged: Both chefs encouraged focusing on Thanksgiving's harvest roots by featuring indigenous ingredients and highlighting the nuances of different Native American cuisines.
In contrast, using wheat flour in place of cornmeal is a different scenario: “Why did the Natives have [flour]? It’s because change was forced upon them,” Chef Barton said. This tension is especially well reflected in contested “Native” recipes like fry bread, which includes refined flour, perhaps the result of Native Americans relying on rations instead of on the land. As Chef Murdoch described it, “We had a hard time growing ancestral foods on the land ‘given’ to us for use by the government.
To turn nut paste into nut soup, the nut ball is placed into water, boiled, and brought to a simmer for roughly 45 minutes. “Let the fat go into the water; let the simmer emulsify it together,” Chef Barton instructed me. When I made the soup, I saw what she meant: The nut oils first separated and pooled on the surface, but after a long simmer and rapid boil, they bound together again into a creamy base.
In addition to hominy, serving kanuchi over roasted sweet potatoes or white rice has been accepted by many families, including Chef Barton’s. Neither are indigenous to the Americas , so this complicated weaving of Native with non-Native offers its own tale of assimilation and identity: “Limes are not indigenous to Mexico, but they grow very well and have been widely adapted into the cuisine,” Chef Murdoch offered as an example.
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