Kanye West introduces Donda to the world, with creative direction by Demna Gvasalia
was in his bedroom at Atlanta’s Mercedes-Benz stadium doing push-ups. Later on, he tucked in for a nap. Throughout the day he invited Chance the Rapper and Demna Gvasalia over, parsed through merch options, tried on a Balenciaga fall 2020 jacket, and welcomed several models into the room, two in red Balenciaga robes and armor boots who sat ritualistically under lit candles, and then another with a bob and sunglasses who sat cross-legged and hunched over an iPhone.
Inside the Mercedez-Benz stadium, guests like Migos and Rick Ross took in an industrial set with a circular stage. On it was a re-creation of West’s room at the arena: mattress, blanket, coat, shoes, stereo, candle. Spotlights and floodlights surrounded the stage while the Spidercam snuck through the air. A ring of clouds or sunbursts or flames lit up the stadium’s oculus. There was little else in the mix; the space’s dirty floors and guardrails were all exposed.
That humanity comes straight from the album, which is arguably West’s most ambitious and personal project to date. A tribute to his late mother,continually references their relationship, his own struggles as a father and husband, and his new life amid a very public divorce. West, who is so Chicagoan he named his kid Chicago, was actually born in Atlanta. Somewhere past the stadium’s walls, in the smoggy urban sprawl is where he shared his first moments with his mother.
It was also the most fluid marriage of music and fashion in a long time. There was no forced co-branded merch or cheeky music cues to coordinate to a runway. Instead the show treated sound and style with equal importance, the aesthetics of the album complementing the visuals, and vice versa. Not since the gilded, Riccardo Tisci days ofPhotographed by Cian Moore / Courtesy of Kanye West
Will the West-Gvasalia post-hardcore, streamlined cultcore catch on? It may take some time. The stadium, smelling of joint smoke and smoke machines, was filled with guests in big logo tees, skinny jeans, and tighter than tight dresses with giant cut-outs. It’s easy to posture—both West and Gvasalia have done that. But their message tonight seemed to be: Do less to do the most. Let’s see if the idea holds as the fashion world preps for its first in-person fashion month in a year and a half.
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