For Tom Brady, Drew Brees and Tony Hawk, the secrets to THE END may lie in the text messages of a 50-year-old surfer. kellyslater is weighing what an off-ramp might look like:
And that’s from a 44-year-old football player. To dominate so late in life at surfing is perhaps even more mind-blowing. “Our sports continue to evolve,” Hawk, another friend, points out. “They’re so artistic and subjective. The levels keep getting pushed further and further. For Kelly to be able to adapt to that is really the most impressive thing.”
A life like that, without the fire, sometimes feels appealing to Slater. “I kind of look forward to it,” he says.But then there’s the matter of that thing inside of him that keeps the fire going—the thing that got him here. “I really think that to be a great competitor,” he says, “there needs to be some kind of personal glitch.”
Slater would stare up at the Pipeline posters on his walls and study the waves in magazines and on videos. But when he got his first chance to confront them, at 12, he was overwhelmed by Pipeline’s monsters. A wave, he says, slammed him into the water, against the reef beneath, pinning him under his board. All he could do was hold his breath until the ocean let him up.
Tesla, though, said he found power in those piercing headaches—visions that spurred, in the end, invention. Intense emotion, Slater says, “turned out to be his superpower.” “That’s gonna be fun for me, to watch everyone else deal with these pressure situations,” says Slater. “I can feel thatIn other words, he gave himself to surfing in total. Winning became his vice. “When I get past that intensity, I get really calm,” he says. “Everything becomes easy. I have a breakthrough, and then it comes out during my surfing. I understand how to tap every bit of a wave’s energy.
“I will be [skating] as much as I can—it just might be behind the scenes, if I feel like my skills are fading. I don’t want to rot in public.”
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