Kwame Onwuachi, a James Beard Award-winning chef, talks about how the streets of his youth influenced his cooking for Tatiana inside Lincoln Center.
,” he filled in much of the rest. His stories were often packed with brutal truths: the beatings his father administered when Onwuachi was anything short of perfect; his sometimes violent descent into gang life as a teen; and his plunge into dealing weed and ecstasy, post high school, and the toll it took on his health and ambition.
The third member of this tightknit group was Marquis Hueston, whose mother was a corrections officer at Sing Sing, Onwuachi wrote in his memoir. “He didn’t bother with macho posturing or intimidation,” Onwuachi added. “We immediately got along.” Onwuachi would “be like, ‘Let’s try it,’ ” remembered Hueston, whose typical childhood diet leaned on Southern fare. “I’d be like, ‘All right. What’s the worst that can happen?’ ”
As Onwuachi was sketching out his plans for Tatiana, the restaurant, he wrote down a list of 40-some dishes from his youth. Jamaican dishes. Halal street food. Dominican snacks. Chinese noodles. Nigerian stews. American sandwiches. Anything that he could recall and, possibly, turn into an appetizer or entree.
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