Light and tender gnocchi require a light and tender touch.
Baking the potatoes makes them drier than boiling; this in turn means you'll need less flour, leading to a lighter result.
See, we've had an ongoing disagreement about how firm a mattress should be, with me preferring more solid ones and her enjoying soft, pillowy ones. We've managed to find a happy medium, but when it comes to our couch, I'm the only one with a shot at being comfortable. No matter the gnocchi you aspire to, getting there is something of a journey. I've been there: I was taught by an old Neapolitan nonna in Italy, whose expert hands made the process look ridiculously simple. After that, I prepared them frequently during my days as a restaurant cook, and recently, I made batch after batch to develop this recipe. And yet, I still feel like my gnocchi are a work in progress.
In fact, one of the best pieces I've read on the more intangible aspects of gnocchi-making was written recently by the chef Marco Canora in; I have to credit Canora not just with that but with influencing gnocchi recipes considerably, at least here in the States. Canora's recipe has been famous ever since it helped land Tom Colicchio's restaurant Craft a glowingreview many years ago, back when Canora worked there.
But the truth is also that those potatoes are much more prone to gumminess than starchy russets are. You can make good gnocchi with them, but it's more difficult to do. My advice is simple: To start out, limit yourself to russets until you get a good feel for how the whole thing works. Then, if you're curious, play around with other types. The worst that happens is you waste a potato or two in the process.
The air-circulation theory, on the other hand, holds more weight . Comparing all the potatoes side by side, it was clear that those held aloft above a metal baking sheet, whether on salt or on a rack, baked evenly all over, while those baked directly on the baking sheet had a tendency to overcook and form crisp spots in the flesh where the potatoes were in contact with the metal.
After trying out a handful of these ratios across the spectrum, my preference falls at the low end: The less flour you can add to the potato while still managing to make a cohesive dough, the better, since additional flour only increases the density of the gnocchi while diluting their potato flavor. In the case of potato gnocchi, though, because we're already dealing with the variable moisture content of the potatoes themselves, being extremely accurate with the flour measurement doesn't really get us anywhere. A measuring cup is sufficient: Add a portion of the flour to the potato and work it into a dough, then add more as needed until it feels just right. Some days, you may end up adding a little less than the full quarter cup per pound.
With gnocchi, you want none of that lateral shearing/stretching motion, since gluten development is your enemy. Instead, you want to simply fold the dough over itself and then gently press down flat with your hand, repeating only as much as is necessary to completely incorporate the flour.The last big decision for your gnocchi is one of form.
In case you're curious, I've found that once the potatoes are riced, you'll be working with almost half the weight of potato that you started with, so a pound of whole potatoes, uncooked, will end up close to eight ounces once riced. This makes sense when you factor in both water loss during baking and the removal of the skins before ricing.
Pat it into a log and dust all over with flour to prevent sticking. This is a good time to scrape your work surface clean of any loose bits.Let it rest for a few minutes, then, using a clean and dry bench scraper, slice off about an inch-thick slab. Inside, you should expose a tender potato-dough surface with tiny little air pockets.Keep on rolling it into a thinner and thinner log until it starts to resemble those Play-Doh snakes we all used to make as kids.
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