Love empanadas? Latino comfort foods enter American mainstream

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Love empanadas? Latino comfort foods enter American mainstream
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Raul A. Reyes, a lawyer, is a member of the USA Today Board of Contributors. He has written for The New York Times, the Los Angeles Times, The Christian Science Monitor, Texas Monthly and the Huffington Post.

QUEENS, New York — By midmorning, a steady stream of people are making their way to a cozy corner business in New York City's borough of Queens. Their destination? The Empanadas Café, celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. “When we started, if our clients were not Latin American, they didn’t know what an empanada was,” owner Patricia Bernard said. “We had to explain to them that it was like a turnover. Today that’s not the case; people know empanadas, and it’s entered the U.S.

But Coyotzi sells tamales year-round, and to great acclaim. She has been profiled by The New Yorker and hailed by Munchies, part of Vice, as “The $1 Tamale Queen of New York.” Prior to opening her storefront café, Coyotzi spent 20 years selling tamales from a cart near an elevated subway line, starting at 4:30 a.m. each day. These days, social media helps drive their business, according to Coyotzi’s son, John Garcia.

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