Strap on your school shoes! From Erdem to Fendi, JW Anderson to Comme des Garçons, the future for men's footwear is femme.
. What’s curious about their appearance this time around is how often we’ve seen them, and so early on in the season. The obvious justification here is that this is another attempt at genderbending ‘menswear’ collections, building on the foundation laid in during an inarguably SS22. A perhaps less obvious point, though, is that they are also part of a general interest for revising men’s sartorial tropes.
This season, Erdem and Fendi drew inspiration from prim, bourgeois menswear and gave its fundamental principles a good old twist. Looking to two 20th Century female photographers, Madame d’Ora and Madame Yevonde, Erdem created a wardrobe that occupied the grey zone between formality and informality – his t-strap Mary Janes with brogueing details, worn sockless, drove that point home. Brogueing was also present on Fendi’s Mary Janes, together with wristwatch straps .
As menswear continues to embrace flamboyance and seeks to disrupt and update its own codes, the co-opting of the femme footwear classic makes sense, echoing what we’ve previously seen happen with skirts and pearl necklaces. And while people have never exactly stopped wearing Mary Janes, fashion loves to find symbols for new mindsets, with the strappy flats serving as the perfect cipher.
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