This garlicky, tangy dip will give you a whole new perspective on what potatoes can do.
Think mashed potatoes and you're probably thinking something warm, hearty, and filling, perfect for cold weather. At least, that's where my mind goes. But it doesn't have to be that way—mashed potatoes can make a fine hot-weather dish. What I'm talking about specifically is, skordalia isn't always a purée of potatoes. It's defined not by them but by the garlic, which is always suspended in some type of starchy base.
It's overall a relatively simple affair, but I still had a few questions to settle for myself when testing my recipe. The first was the ratio of ingredients.
Next, I played with the potatoes, trying both silky Yukon Golds and starchy russets. I had high hopes for the Yukons, imagining that their smoother texture could lend itself well to this dip, but my mind was changed as soon as I tried them side by side. The russets made a lighter, creamier dip that I definitely preferred., peeling and dicing the potatoes, rinsing off their surface starches, then simmering them in well-salted water until tender.
The versions of skordalia that I've eaten have generally had a marked tartness from acids like lemon juice and wine vinegar. I tried both, and if I had to choose, I'd go with the sharper flavor of wine vinegar here, whether red or white. The final variable I played with was the nut-and-garlic mixture that gets worked into the potatoes. I tried a mortar and pestle, which we often recommend for these types of pulverizing jobs (see
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