How did a programme about two middle-aged men masticating get so popular?
, by now, is cooking on gas. It knows what it’s doing, which buttons to press, and precisely when to hit the extractor fan.
“This is where the wave of ambition hits the rock of reality,” said Wallace to a blank-faced Torode in the introduction, thereby making the English language work far harder than it needs to. Later, he would mangle the French language too, mispronouncing “Michelin” with a hard “ch”. But of course he did. Wallace, a helplessly compelling individual who will one day be turned into a statue for Trafalgar Square’s fourth plinth, has a reputation to maintain. And by God he lives up to it.
And then there was Fateha, an IT teacher from Birmingham, who wants to bring some Bengal spice into her dishes, and possesses a face that looks as if it’s perpetually on the brink of tears. For reality television, this is a good thing.
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