Mastering These Spring Rolls Was My Filipino Rite of Passage

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Mastering These Spring Rolls Was My Filipino Rite of Passage
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'The thing about memory is that you can’t quite pin it down on paper—but you can certainly try.'

When it came time to fry the lumpia, my mother and aunties would shoo us kids away. They feared the oil splatter, of course, but it was as if, as well, we just hadn’t earned the right yet to be there for that final transformation. It was a sight to behold: The white wrapper would sizzle to a crisp, deep golden brown. I still remember the day I graduated from wrapper-separator to filling-maker.

I still remember the day I graduated from wrapper-separator to filling-maker. But when I was finally old enough to be in charge of the frying, that’s when I knew I had become one of the aunties. The magic of lumpia is that every hand makes it differently. My mom and grandma make totally different styles of lumpia. My mom’s were long, thin, and crisp and my grandma’s were shorter, fatter, and never quite as crisp as Mom's. Grandma always wrapped them the night before, which made them lose their crispy texture. My step-mom makes a completely different lumpia than both of them.

I wrote this lumpia recipe based off of my mom’s. I spent days on it, testing it over and over until it tasted just how I remembered it. I shared it with my class and now I’m sharing it with you.

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