Maticevski RTW Spring 2020

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Maticevski RTW Spring 2020
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Australian designer Maticevski lightened his dramatic signature with breezy fabrics and more daywear options.

For Australian designer Toni Maticevski, designing around a theme is no longer working out. “It’s really weird. I’ve stopped trying to figure it out,” he said ruefully during a showroom appointment. What he thought about instead: how good a spring morning feels — clear skies, bright light and the scent of dew-saturated earth.

He embodied the latter as touches of sheen or darker tones; the bright light in flattering pinky-beiges, and the breeze in fabrics meant to obscure without hiding the skin. Given his proclivity for architectural draping, the result could have easily felt too formal. Here, his sculptural approach was reined in by softer fabrics and felt more relatable, especially with new daywear options.

Among the standouts: A light gray striped dress looked blowsy, while soft tuffs dotting white gauze fabric evoked sun-dappled surfaces. A jersey T-shirt gave an editor-off-duty look to a pencil skirt. The soft hand of a silk blend made a top and matching trousers skew more relaxed but still smart.The lighter materials of the collection made tailored pieces stand out.

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