Writer rabbitwhite talks about what a shift in fashion says about body politics and the BBL era nearing an end.
Outside of the 2013 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York City, the crowd was in a frenzy. A sea of iPhone 5s rose as each front-row guest pulled up in their black car, with the crowd buzzing each time with the rumor thatmust be Kim and Kanye. 2013 was the year that Kim Kardashian officially arrived in the world of fashion — this after years of talk that the reality star had been banned from the Met Gala, on the direct orders of Anna Wintour herself.
Fast-forward to the era of the pandemic: The past two years saw a flood of videos and digital lookbooks in place of physical shows. The Miu Miu Spring 2022 show adhered to “the new normal” by livestreaming the catwalk. The physical and virtual spaces of the show were punctuated with videos by artist Mariem Bennani, in order to fit the short attention span of a digital audience. The looks were also suited to the tastes of a online audience, most notably the ultra-low-rise Y2K throwbacks .
The current cultural climate, if not hinted at in the design of the Miu Miu skirt, is maybe more apparent in the short film, poking fun at BBLs. The past few months have seen a burst of discourse online about “The End of the BBL”; searching the phrase on Twitter brings up dozens of comments — users celebrating its imagined “demise,” with others pointing out how troubling the discourse feels, so barely coded as to be outright racist.
The want for answers is inevitable when the return of low-rise provokes an emotional response in those who lived through the early aughts heyday of normalized eating disorders and a pop culture that chastised women for their appearance. It was in 2008, as Paris Hilton’s fame was beginning to decline and Kim’s rose, that Hilton called into a radio show to say that Kim’s butt was “disgusting,” and that she “wouldn’t want it,” likening Kim’s body to “cottage cheese stuffed in a trash bag.
Trends start from the margins, in part, because of the perceived “freedom” of those living in more precarious situations, through the eyes of those who are more comfortable, bored. Those who will never be as rich as the Kardashians but who live without much awareness of the construction of the systems that benefit them.
Where the BBL most caught on was in the sex industry, which is where many other gone-mainstream beauty trends also got their start. For sex workers, who are often paid for looking vaguely “exotic,” though still white passing, being at the forefront of beauty trends might be the best way to transcend class or, at least, to make ends meet. It isn’t hard to imagine that for sex workers who were never thin or who had aged out of easy thinness, the arrival of the BBL could have felt like a godsend.
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