Tasting Notes: My favorite cookie in Southern California
Around Easter, my social media feeds began marching out a steady parade of images featuring maamoul, the small filled pastries much loved in Lebanon, Syria and other swaths of the Levant. The algorithms know me too well.Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more from critics Bill Addison and Patricia Escárcega.A lightly yeasted dough is traditional for making maamoul, often a combination of flour and semolina perfumed with rose water or orange blossom water.
Though they’re a year-round treat, Levantine Christians particularly associate maamoul with Easter. Muslims often snack on them when breaking the fast during Ramadan, and they’re a vital part of an Eid al-Fitr celebration, which happens this year on May 24.Shatila Bakery in Dearborn, Mich., is famous for its Middle Eastern pastries but especially its variations on baklawa. The bakery ships all over the country; my first taste of maamoul was from one of its holiday assortments a decade ago.
Maamoul are a staple in any Middle Eastern bakery, including savory flatbread specialists like the excellent Forn Al Hara in Anaheim and Furn Saj , both of which specialize in Lebanese manaeesh.Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most.Poking around the Internet, I came across Suzy’s Sweets Boutique in Pasadena.
Maamoul come by the pound, or by the half-pound in combinations; the Ohanians accept orders through their website or by phone . They don’t offer delivery or shipping; pickup only. Plan 24 to 48 hours ahead for them to bake the maamoul fresh. Hermine mentioned she and her mother stay very busy during Ramadan.
Suzy’s Sweets Boutique also makes textbook, shattering-melting ghraybeh, a Lebanese sweet that falls somewhere between shortbread and sugar cookie and is traditionally garnished with a sliver of pistachio. But the maamoul — outstanding. If this ends up being your first taste of them, apologies. It might be hard to find better, though you can always consider making them yourself.
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