From Pag to Ventotene, five writers reveal their lesser-known hideaways
It was Francesca Amfitheatrof, Louis Vuitton’s high-profile artistic director for jewellery, who introduced me to the very low-profile Ventotene. A habituée since childhood, Amfitheatrof spoke rapturously of a scantly visited place that had somehow remained virtually unchanged from those 1980s days. I soon learnt how such a unicorn state of affairs might have come about: Ventotene was, for most of the year, a real pain in the ass to get to.
There’s the art deco town of Lakki, built in the 1930s to house 30,000 of Mussolini’s troops. There are underground bunkers and tunnels, shipwrecked warplanes and submarines. There are two converted windmills where you can taste the best ouzo sour and calamari carbonara in the Aegean: the wryly named Harris Bar and Mylos By the Sea, a restaurant whose setting is as sensational as the seafood. Mylos attracts Turkish gourmands on gulets and occasional gin palaces from Patmos.
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