A personal essay from a New Englander who, after ten years in New York, still thinks the hot dogs of New England are superior.
Mari Uyehara was previously a senior editor at Saveur, Time Out New York, and Martha Stewart Living Radio, and her work has appeared in The Wall Street Journal, The Boston Globe, and Epicurious. Her column on American food in TASTE won a James Beard Award in 2019.They say that you become a real New Yorker after 10 years in the city. Or, at least, that's the lore among the aspiring.
No one likes to admit that an institution, especially one with an everyman reputation, isn't all that good. It's like saying your sweet grandparents bore you. New Yorkers mourned when the West 8th Street Gray's shut its doors two years ago, replaced, somewhat cruelly, by a juice bar selling $8 blended kale. You don't need to love the frank to understand the enduring appeal of Gray's Recession Special: two hot dogs and a drink, last priced at $2.75.
"The bun is all-important," says Jasper White, New England food expert and chef-owner of Summer Shack. "It's half of the dish. The New England–style buns are smaller and cut on the side, so they're thinner. They don't overpower the hot dog." ."But I suspect it originates with Friendly's in western Mass. Maybe someone made it before. If you have a flat griddle, then splitting the bun and heating it is a natural, and butter keeps it from burning. Think of grilled cheese."
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