In the northermost point of Italy, locals speak their own language and celebrate a culture that’s far removed from Rome
, Europe’s toughest amateur one-day bike race, which sees 9,000 riders tackle punishing mountain passes. The race is happening when I’m there, and the atmosphere is incredible. My first sighting of Costa is when he pedals by on a penny farthing in full lederhosen.. It’s been launched to remind visitors that responsible travel involves interacting with the people who live in your destination year-round, and through them finding a deeper understanding of it.
And it’s clear he feels a responsibility towards the region beyond the tourist euro. “I try to educate myself and the guests who stay with us to change gear, to have new eyes to see our tormented beautiful world,” he says. “And I believe that as long as the language is part of everyday life, it will remain alive.”
The fading of a minority language affects more than just the way people say hello, and Badia shows how it can thrive. Road signs are trilingual, Ladin is taught in schools, and it’s protected by law, but that doesn’t guarantee survival.Earlier this year, the government of Giorgia Meloni proposed legislation to punish local authorities who use English before
in communications. There are uncomfortable echoes from the past: Mussolini’s 1923 “Italianisation” programme promoted Italian and persecuted Ladin, which is also now considered “officially endangered” by Unesco.
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