Notes of smoke and ash: Wine grapes tainted by West Coast fires

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Notes of smoke and ash: Wine grapes tainted by West Coast fires
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Smoke from the California and Pacific Northwest wildfires has tainted grapes in some of the nation’s most celebrated wine regions.

The things that set California apart, for better or worse, were all there last Sunday afternoon: terrifying flames, wine country glamour and a rescue straight out of Hollywood.

In the forested foothills bordering Oregon’s Willamette Valley, thick yellow-brown smoke smothered a region famed for producing“Pinot noir is a very thin-skinned grape, meaning it’s very delicate in nature, and you can’t mask any type of flaws in the growing condition or in the winery,” said Christine Clair, winery director of Willamette Valley Vineyards in Turner, Ore.

Jim Bernau, founder of Willamette Valley Vineyards, said of the smoke: “I’ve been here growing wine grapes for over 38 years, and I have never experienced or seen anything like this as a wine grower.”By last weekend, rain and shifting winds had cleared the skies. Bernau believed many Oregon wineries would escape damage because the smoke did not linger too long.Get Boiling Point, our newsletter about climate change, the environment and building a more sustainable California.

“After just about two days, you can have a pretty good idea if that juice that now became wine is viable,” Clair said. The results indicated a low risk of smoke taint for the whites and rosés.In fermenting red samples, the skin is left on. Initial results are also promising, but the winery is prepared to turn some of the grapes with heavier smoke exposure into rosé instead of red wine, Clair said.

The wine industry had already been hammered this year by the coronavirus and shutdown of restaurants, bars and wine-tasting rooms.

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