Russian has the islands. Japan claims them. And suddenly there is speculation that Putin could give them back.
Russia has the islands. Japan claims them. And suddenly there is speculation that Putin could give them back.
Japan has long claimed that Russia illegally occupies Kunashir and a handful of other nearby islands on the southern end of the Kuril archipelago, which threads the sea between mainland Russia and northern Japan. Seen from Kunashir, the snow-sheathed mountains of northern Japan tower on the horizon, but there’s no regular passenger service to connect the two worlds.
Starzhinsky, who found the flotsam Japanese lollipops as a boy, now runs an antenna station and makes rock music in his spare time. One of his hits hints at his home’s split identity — and the anxiety of living on disputed territory:They say there is a lot of Japanese bamboo hereHot springs in the closed military village Goryachy Plyazh, or Hot Beach, on Kunashir. LEFT: Hot springs in the closed military village Goryachy Plyazh, or Hot Beach, on Kunashir.
The problem for Putin, though, is that speculation about a handover fired up opposition from his nationalist base. For decades, residents saw the Japanese city lights at night and the mountains during the day. Since the 1990s, under a joint government program, residents have been able to take a boat to Japan a few times a year on organized trips.
“It’s possible that, on the inside, people try to block themselves off from Japan,” she said. She first visited in 2011. “I like the discipline. It’s not like here, all chaos.” TOP: Local fisherman Anatoly Yakovlev. BOTTOM LEFT: An octopus that beached inside a boot during a storm. BOTTOM RIGHT: A fisherman shows caviar and local fish. For some, the in-between life is comfortable. Salaries are higher and vacation time longer than on the mainland, and some locals can afford holidays in Thailand or Vietnam. Storms deposit surf clams and luscious scallops onto the beach. If you toss a rubber boot into the water, it might wash up with an octopus inside.
“It’s scary,” said Sergey Korostylev, 50, head of the near-shore fleet at the island fish company. “I have nothing on the continent. Where will I go?” Yakovlev was born and raised in eastern Ukraine, near the front line of the war with Russian-backed separatists. Tired of the hardship, his sister moved to northern Siberia last year. A vacuum-packed smoked salmon takes a month and a half to get there, but he said it is still good when it arrives.
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