One Mai Tai, Hold the Colonialism Please

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One Mai Tai, Hold the Colonialism Please
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Tiki became popular by pillaging Caribbean drinking traditions and Polynesian aesthetics for a predominantly white audience. How do you do tiki in 2019 without furthering that legacy?

, then forced them into a pastiche molded by Polynesian aesthetics, all for U.S. consumers.

The look of tiki solidified around elaborate ceramic mugs modeled on Polynesian statues, along with flamingos, palm trees, and pineapples, all of which evoke — from a mainland U.S.-centric point of view — an escape from reality. The word “tiki” itself was taken from Maori mythology, where it’s the name of the first man ever created, and refers to the carved statues of humans prevalent throughout Polynesia.into the 1970s, which is impressively long-lived as far as trends go.

“Like most people, I thought of rum- and fruit-forward cocktails as being sickly sweet, unsophisticated, flat pool drinks,” she says. But opening up Jeff Berry’s, she found “beautiful, complex, wonderful, historically significant contributions to the cocktail canon.”

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