Here, a look at some of the newer names on the Paris calendar.
Gunther said her artistic references were two-pronged, rooted on the one hand in the early 20th century and particularly the Gilded Age of New York. Central to this period for her are the figures of Jay Gatsby as the epitome of the American dream, and debonaire gangsters with their attitude and class.
So much so that he first spent four years earning a bachelor’s degree in womenswear in South Korea, before heading to London for another two-year BA at London College of Fashion and later, Central Saint Martins’ menswear MA course.
It revisits the film’s formal school uniforms and preppy aesthetic through Kim’s lens. Expect a smart Canadian tuxedo in a salmon-pink denim wash, lavaliere shirts in crisp poplin, thick-gauge knit polo shirts, all augmented with the pourpoints, corsets and other doublets of centuries past. Prices will start around 450 pounds for tops and go up to 1,200 pounds for Kim’s intricately detailed technical outerwear.
Echoes of Julian Schnabel’s “anti-reality pajama uniform” influence a louche lineup rife with silk shirts, lightweight windbreakers, shorts and even overalls printed in sophisticated designs nodding to Greco-Roman motifs of wrestlers, plants or geometric friezes. And that comes easiest when you’re faced with your base material in the mirror every day. “I connected with menswear because I always start from myself when trying to share my view on fashion,” explained Hong Kong-based designer Karmuel Young.
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