Overcoat RTW Spring 2021

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Overcoat RTW Spring 2021
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Overcoat designer Ryuhei Oomaru presented his own unique take on summer tailoring for his spring line.

Overcoat designer Ryuhei Oomaru has a solid pedigree — he worked for Comme des Garçons in Tokyo before relocating to New York City in 2007, where he designed Phi, the women’s label launched by Michael Dell’s wife Susan, before becoming head tailor for Donna Karan. He launched Overcoat in 2015 as a side project to his other business, Oomaru Seisakusho 2, a product development studio that has quietly become the go-to spot for more than 15 New York-based luxury labels.

This cape shoulder was first introduced last year by creating a pattern from one rectangular piece — Overcoat offers it in a short-sleeve version for spring. The designer described the suit as “floppy and sloppy,” but it was anything but sloppy — instead, it offered a modern, sophisticated take on a tailored leisure suit that was also comfortable to wear.Although construction is Oomaru’s forte, fabrics are also key to the collection. For spring, he selected piece goods that provide utility and comfort such as a French linen in a high-density weave; crisp turpan cotton, and tightly twisted rayon tricotine yarn with diagonal rows of twill.

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