“I wonder if, after two years of pandemic isolation, I have been overwintering too.” — jonkauffman
In early March, Joey Staub and I mucked our way through thickets of chickweed to reach a patch of scraggly late-winter collards. Staub, the farm manager for Gathering Together Farm in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, drove me to this stretch of fields and translucent, plastic-roofed hoop houses to look at what six months of cold and rain had done to the farm’s brassica crops.
I have lived up and down the West Coast for three decades now, and I have never tasted anything like the raabs that signal the end of Oregon’s winter. Two years ago, new to Portland, I came across bundles of kale raab at Gathering Together’s farmers market stand. I wasn’t sure what to make of the thick-stemmed sprouts, because the name suggested they might be as painfully bitter to my palate as broccoli rabe.
There’s a reason, too, that I never came across raabs until I moved to Oregon. “We produce a lot of brassicas because they’re so well suited to our winters,” said Kristine Buckman, a vegetable specialist with Oregon State University. “We have the sort of cool, wet conditions that allow brassicas to really do [their] thing.”
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