Lockdown threatened to kill one of the city’s best-loved institutions forever, but the restaurant survived
‘We will miss you,’ read a sign affixed to the restaurant door as lockdown threatened to kill one of the city’s best-loved institutions forever, but the restaurant survived and persists in the face of spiralling costs - and thank goodness.
Its vintage-looking signage promises nostalgia for a life in Northern Italy that you’ve probably never lived - but just a short stop in this welcoming eatery could almost convince you that you had. Of my Thursday afternoon visit, it is the subtle sweetness of the tomatoes which linger in the memory and distinguish the Pasta Romagna bolognese as a cut above the countless others served across the city. The freshness of the ingredients shines and the bite on the linguine is just right. After, the tiramisu also hits the mark - fluffy and light, with a delicate flavour that isn’t overwhelmed with booziness.
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