Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022.
made his return to Florence menswear fair Pitti Uomo yesterday evening , opening up the for-one-night-only ‘Bar Paul’ in Giuseppe Poggi’s Villa Favard, where espresso and spritzes were served on the riverside mansion’s sprawling lawns.
It was, he said, a riposte to the increasing number of big-budget, around-the-world runway shows hosted by fashion’s major players. ‘I think the world’s gone a bit mad with these shows everywhere around the world,’ he said, presiding over a room of gathered guests and press. ’I just think it’s so lacking in personality. So I thought, why don’t I just talk to everyone and show the collection?’
These coffee bars, and their famous patrons – including artists like Lucian Freud – inspired the collection’s easy, eclectic mood, where double-breasted blazers might be worn with flower-emblazoned jeans , or the loose, draped line of a pullover shirt inspired by an artist’s smock.‘Many of the artists of the time, like Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon were living in the area and used to hang out in these bars,’ Smith said. ’A lot of these outfits are really based on how these artists dressed.
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