Peter Do introduced his vision for Helmut Lang at New York Fashion Week with a collection that began from memories of teenage road trips. Here, he describes the collection in his own words
‘When I got this job, I was thinking back to the first luxurious experience I had,‘ says Peter Do backstage after his debut as creative director of Helmut Lang , amid throngs of fans, family and friends at New York Fashion Week S/S 2024.
A diagonal panel cut into suit jackets felt partially like it had been driven over, while also recalling a beauty pageant sash. Sourced vintage seat belts were turned into luminous trims. A crisp shirt worn backwards, as if in reverse, was printed with Vuong’s words. Elsewhere, there was a denim workwear overall, a knit dress embellished with pearl polka dots and slashed elbows, while slinky, slippery silk jersey kick flare pants pooled over heavy-soled boots.
Is there a shared commonality between the original Lang loyalist and the new brand? ’Absolutely, for sure,’ he says. There is no doubt a parallel between the audience Lang was designing for in the late 1990s – creative youth looking for clothes that made sense to them as they matured into the world – and the Gen Zs that turned out in support of Do today. He thinks in practical terms: ‘There’s a system of dressing that we worked on, and every season we evolve it.
He is concurrently working on his own Peter Do label, too. ‘I haven't slept for a while,’ he laughs. He’s recently moved ‘P.D.’ to Paris, and he plans to keep the label ‘intentional, sensitive, and a reflection of where I am now with my life. I started my brand six years ago when I was 26. I’m now 32, I have a different way of living, I’ve found my voice, you will see the two brands will be very different.
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