The emblematic Alaïa black dress is celebrated in a ‘simple, sensual and elegant’ 11-piece capsule collection by Pieter Mulier, photographed here by Paolo Roversi
Azzedine Alaïa was a master of construction and form, perhaps best epitomised by his signature black dresses – an archetype of womenswear, honed season after season by the late couturier, sculpted to the wearer’s body and rigorously engineered. ‘An essential of everyone’s wardrobe, an emblem of the Alaïa vocabulary,’ says the house.
Released this month, a new capsule collection by Pieter Mulier – the Belgian designer became creative director of Alaïa in February 2021 – ‘revisits and reintreprets’ the black dress with 11 new designs that each provides a riff on the house’s distinct codes . ‘Eleven pure shapes, created for all bodies,’ Alaïa says of the project.
Indeed, Mulier has previously spoken about a desire to create a ‘democratic’ fashion house – ‘that’s how I want to build the future of this legendary house; I can’t change everything – and I don’t want to,’ he said in the Wallpaper* Style Issue earlier this year . ‘But I want to try and give Alaïa to a bigger audience, to make it more inclusive.’A focus on the body remains central to Mulier’s approach, which he describes as a pursuit of ‘modern beauty’.
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