French for 'fancy hash brown.' (And we mean that in the best way.)
, Peter Kump. In it he describes visiting the chef Jacques Cagna one evening in Paris, in which the chef quickly whipped up some pommes Darphin by grating"some peeled potatoes quickly, directly into the pan, salting and peppering them from time to time," before cooking them in a skillet and serving the crispy cake with duck breast.
In the end, I had to conclude there wasn't necessarily a firm definition of this particular preparation, though the tendency is towards a potato pancake that's larger, more evenly round, and thicker than latkes or hash browns. Plus, they don't typically have onions like latkes do. And while recipes seem to use both grated and julienned potato, the long, fine strands of julienne seem these days to be more standard.First, choose your potatoes.
Next, cut your potatoes. I recommend using the julienne teeth on a mandoline or food processor blade for fine, even strands about 1 to 2mm thick. Beware of hand-slicing the potato unless your knife skills are sharp, as too-thick stands will be resistant nesting together into a cake. Season the potatoes well, then fry in a skillet while forming the cake until tender inside and very crispy outside. Pepín recommends washing and drying the potato strands before cooking them to remove surface starches that can make the interior of the cake slightly gummy, though this step has the downside of also making the strands less inclined to fuse together into a cake.
As for serving, Darphin would be good just about any way one might want to eat pan-fried potatoes, though in France it's most often served alongside roasted meats. I can attest that it's also mighty tasty with crème fraîche and seafood like smoked fish and fish roe.
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