In awe of their exotic SS21 Fashion Week debut, we were slightly disappointed to see Rabens Saloner float so far away from their tie-dye DNA: CPHFW
Rabens Saloner brought by joy and freshness after the stuffy lockdown months last summer.
This year however, it seems as though the brand has taken a less defined direction. Following such a strong Fashion Week debut and equally powerful Autumn/Winter presentation, the SS22 offering falls short in comparison. The physical location of the show served as a literal extension to the theme of reflection, with models strutting down a glimmering, mirrored runway tucked under the Knippelsbro bridge. The exhibition-like scenography called for colour and movement in the clothing, but the dull palette of stone, cream and sand seems to have taken precedence instead.
We still pined over the silks dyed snake green and yellow, but the handmade craft of traditional Indonesian dyers got lost between crinkly metallic and organza fabrics we most certainly did not need more of this year. The volume of head-to-toe Tin Man outfits was frankly overbearing and together with tiered smock dresses, gave the impression of the brand trying desperately to satisfy the millennial trends.
It’s no secret that fashion is fast, repetitive and sometimes predictable, but the first impression left us wanting more, especially of the batik fabrics that are such a beautiful nod to the traditional craft.
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