Local favorite takes flight in Mueller
Three massive portraits of Mexican actress and feminist activist María Félix overlook the dining room of Veracruz Fonda & Bar, a love letter to powerful women everywhere. The new brick-and-mortar from sisters Reyna and Maritza Vazquez, who brought us Veracruz All Natural , is an homage to their mother's family restaurant in Veracruz, Mexico.
Among the starters, the shrimp ceviche is just as gorgeous as it is tasty and could easily be a meal on its own. Large fried corn tortillas beg to be piled high with tangy shrimp and avocado. Check out El Cuarteto dip sampler for the sikil pak, a revelatory pumpkin-seed salsa that complements the blazingly hot peanut macha.
Veracruz Fonda excels when it comes to small plates. Among the standouts are the panucho de cochinita, a corn tortilla filled with refried black beans and topped with cochinita pibil, avocado, and grilled habanero salsa. It's simple and simply delightful. The most impressive dish on the lineup, though, is the mojarra frita, a deep-fried whole fish that is both visually stunning and delicious. Upgrade to red snapper; it's a worthwhile investment. The combination of crispy skin cooked in garlic sauce, flaky meat, and subtle spicing makes this a tremendous catch. Excavating the raw materials for several tacos from the fish takes some effort but is absolutely worth it.
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